Frizzante or PANACHE! Trying to explain to MsX the difference../p>
Unzipped, trying to look Pro staying cool in the heat.. Photo credit to @mark_stoneham #firstworldpelotonproblems #hurtlocker
Sit Down in Your Shirt
When out trying on different button-up shirts, do something you may not have considered: sit down in your shirt before buying. Since slim is in, many (fashionably aware) men these days have overcompensated by buying slimmer and slimmer garments. The result is a shirt that might looks like it fits well when they’re standing in front of a mirror, but as soon as they sit down, the placket will gape and the buttons will strain as their stomachs push out.
A well fitting shirt should have relatively clean lines no matter what position your body is in. See the two men above from custom shirt maker Anto as examples. The one on the left has a shirt that’s slim enough to be flattering, but also comfortable enough to accommodate his body while he’s seated. Naturally, a shirt may feel tighter in the midsection if you slouch, but if you’re sitting up reasonably straight, the lines should remain fairly clean.
Other things you may want to check:
- Armholes: Move your arms around to make sure you can reasonably lift them up without untucking your shirt. If you can’t, the armholes may be too low.
- Collar: Manufacturers typically built in shrinkage, so it’s fine if your collar is a bit looser in the store. Generally, however, you want to be able to slip just your index finger between your collar and neck after a few washes.
- Collar points: The collar points should be long enough so that they’re still touching the body of your shirt when you have a tie on. And though it’s a matter of preference, I think they should also be cut in a way so that the points remain tucked behind your sport coat when you’re wearing a jacket.
- Sleeves: Again, manufacturers build in shrinkage, but generally speaking, after a few washes, your sleeves should come down to the webbing between your thumb and index finger when your cuffs are unbuttoned. When buttoned, they should sit just below your wrists. This way, you have enough material for your cuffs to stay still (rather than ride up your arm) when you extend your arms. If you’re able to get the first but not the second, a simple fix may be to just move the cuff button, thus making the cuff a bit tighter. You can do this at home quite easily.
Classics for the Unsure and Indecisive
I was trying to decide the other day whether I should buy a certain pair of brogues from a Hungarian shoe company I admire. Should I get them in oxblood or dark brown? A sleek last or round toe? Or perhaps a different design all together? After a bit of mulling, I decided to put these decisions off until next year. It’s not like I can afford them right now anyway.
And isn’t that what’s great about classic men’s clothing? That you can delay purchases for a year, even two, and the items will still be there? Not sure if you should get a tweed jacket in dark brown or mid-grey? Or whether you prefer wingtips to penny loafers? Think about it for as long as you need to. If you’re buying from reputable makers, and choosing classic designs, these items will still be sitting there waiting for you when you return. Compare that to more fashion-orientated brands, where designs can be seasonal, and if you don’t get a certain thing this year, you may never see it again.
Not to say that there’s anything wrong with “fashion.” The idea that men’s clothing can be simply divided into timeless classics and “frivolous fashion” is a bit reductive. But there’s something to be said about things that will be around for the next five, ten, fifteen years. If you’re not sure if you really want something, or if a particular item is just a passing fad, put the purchase off for a year or two and then return to it.
Which is really just a long way to say something that’s been said many times before: shop slowly and thoughtfully when building a wardrobe. The great thing about classic men’s clothing is that you don’t have to rush yourself. Make decisions you’re sure of, buy things you can afford, and give yourself time so that you can do both.
(Photo credit: d_pap)
catch me at siki ims studio trying on exquisite headwear
“Don’t laugh at a youth for his affectations; he’s only trying on one face after another till he finds his own.”
– Logan Pearsall Smith
Menswear on Tumblr: Dear Guido, your blog is exceptional and inspirational. I was wondering if you could give me some advice: I'm headed to Europe for about 3 weeks, and need some good, casual sneakers for a fair bit of city walking. I'm trying to move out of a boat-shoe phase. Any suggestions? Kind regards, Rob.
Ones that fit..
Boat shoes are for boats..
Hiking shoes for hiking..
Maybe low profile sneakers?
I like Common Projects, Converse chucks & JPs.
Not even trying here.
Fuck any kind of pedigree we had going.
Dialing this one in.
Paint by numbers with this shit.
Lookbook A B C’s.
O is for Orange.
Saw the O face bros making OJ last season.
So we added a banana and a green apple.
Oh shit blogger.
Our BDs just jumped up a price point.
Cause we mad fruity.
C is for carpet.
Racking our brains.
And our inspiration folders.
Who’s floor game is on point?
Shit son, you member when we smoked that droll up with Coggs?
Oh fuck man.
He rolled his dank with Penguin classic papes.
Kush wrapped in Cannery Row.
Told classic tales of sit downs with with OGs.
Wondering how much more he could have learned.
If he wasn’t on The Lean when they were dropping knowledge like that.
But shit son.
His crib’s on that Persian tip.
Let’s drop down some carpet.
Buyers gonna blow us up so hard bro.
S is for stacks.
Stacks on stacks on stacks.
Mad literature, son.
Cause we deep.
Deep inside that e-tail fallopian.
L is for Ladder
Have you dudes even heard of Brim City?
Didn’t think so.
Cause we didn’t find this shit in some back alley.
H is for hammer.
On behalf of Justice.
I let the steel speak.
About a ton.
We fucking merked this shit so hard.
I think the model just threw up in his mouth a little.
99 used to say you miss 100 percent of the shots you don’t take.
Blindfolded wrist shots from center ice.
Raining into the stands.
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