Old photos of Fair Isle sweaters, taken from the Shetland Museum.
Love by Richard Chai + Denim & Supply (Taken with Instagram)
* Thanks to a new follower who has taken the time to go through my archives & found some GEMS, I’m going to re-post some of my older posts as they are still very relevant & in turn answer the numerous messages & emails I still get on a weekly basis even though I have retired from suits & ties
Black shoe (not shoes) + BIG cuff + minimal break.. WHAT?
Nothing beats the simplicity & sharpness of a not so “shiny” but gently polished black cap-toe oxfords + well balanced cuff to break ratio.
Still confused? I am constantly asked about the size of my cuff & the break. I wish they would ask me about the Rugby or the MotoGP ;o)
Anyway, in this day an age we all get tied up with definitive measurements & forget the most important rule balance & proportion.
Well when you are of my stature we start to see things from a different perspective.
So in simple terms, what you see is not what you think. The size of cuff & opening I wear is not so easily translated to others. The other factor we need to take into account:
- type of cloth – as some have more drape & others are stiff
- pattern & colour of cloth
- type of shoe – narrow, wide, double or single sole & so on
- dimension of shoe
The above also need to be taken into account with the break of the pant – when the bottom touches the shoe & how much of a crease is formed.
IMO men that are shorter in stature should avoid full-breaks at all times as this cause a disturbance in the flow from shoe to trou to jacket & so on.
They say that men of my stature (< or = 5’7”) should avoid cuffs let alone 2” cuffs (as the standard is 1.5” - 1.75”), but we come back to my previous statement regarding balance & proportion not definitive measurements. Sure once you have worked out what works for you then use that as a base – but we still need to refer to the naked eye to see if the balance & proportion is there.
This is where it helps if you have a tailor or a 2nd or 3rd person that you trust to be the impartial eye as the 1st person tends to see the inflection not reflection from the right perspective.
I hope this has not been too tedious, but it is easier than responding to emails etc.
FYI – Not all my cuffs are 2”. They actually vary from 1.75” to 2” & the opening varies from 15” to 16”. See, nothing is definitive.
Enjoy & walk TALL & the other day I saw a man with 4” maybe 5” cuffs – I should have asked him about them.
& before you ask, this was posted over 2 years ago, the shoes a MTO Vass on U last (size 40.5), the pants are bespoke & I am 5’7”
That time again for a mid afternoon kick (Taken with Instagram)
Treating my Sistah & Niece to some Movida (Taken with Instagram)
And a river runs through it. #wiwt (Taken with Instagram)