Learning Basic Patterns and Weaves
If you’re interested in familiarizing yourself with some basic patterns and weaves, StyleForum member Apropos a nice, uploaded guide that you can download here for free. Originally scanned many years ago by another member named Sator, this simple, eighteen page guide covers everything from the common hopsack to the less common diamondweave. This may be useful if you’ve ever needed to describe a garment accurately (e.g. when selling something on eBay) or just want to know more about the clothes that fill up your closet.
Note, when reading the descriptions, remember that warp refers to the lengthwise yarns set on a frame or loom, while weft refers to the transverse threads drawn over-and-under the warp in order to create the fabric. How the warp and weft yarns are set will determine each fabric’s color, pattern, and weave. The rest of the descriptions in this guide should be self-explanatory.
It’s On Sale: John Smedley Knitwear
Basic John Smedley v-necks and cardigans are on sale for 60% off right now at StyleGun. Once you discount for European taxes, that puts the v-necks at about $ 93 and cardigans at $ 110. Expensive, but these really are very well-made knits. I bought my first John Smedley sweater about seventeen years ago, and it’s held its shape and color beautifully. You can’t say that about many other brands out there. Colors right now include your basic navy, grey, and browns, which don’t go on sale at John Smedley’s website (they only discount seasonal colors).
The v-neck model on sale is their Bobby, which has somewhat of a small v-neck opening, making the neckline a bit higher. I personally favor this style, but some like the more traditional, lower neckline. It’s designed to wear a bit fitted so that you can wear underneath a sport coat. You can find measurements for it on Mr. Porter’s site, under their “size & fit” tab.
The cardigan is their Bryn model, which is also quite fitted. Unfortunately, Mr. Porter doesn’t have measurements for that, but I would take whatever size you’re in for the Bryn as you would for the Bobby.
Hal Fischer, “Street Fashion, Basic Gay” (1977). From Gay Semiotics: A Photographic Study of Visual Coding among Homosexual Men.
Okay. I’ve clearly got some things I need to think about.